From today's Island newspaper. Published on the blog earlier, but what appears below is a modified version.
By Dr. Nihal D. Amerasekera
"Nature is painting for us, day after day, pictures of infinite beauty if only we have the eyes to see them." — John Ruskin
I have often wondered why sunsets being a natural phenomenon occurring everyday evoke such intense passion and emotion. Is it the crimson glow that mesmerise us? But we never pine for the day that’s gone! The combination of the sun, the clouds and their reflection on the water gives the sunset a magical status. Light reflecting from the setting sun behind a city skyline or a distant mountain, with bright orange hues are a magnificent spectacle of mystical charm. I am reminded of Rabindranath Tagore’s poem "Stray Birds"
"Clouds come floating into my life,
no longer to carry rain or usher storm,
but to add colour to my sunset sky."
There is something very soothing for the soul in looking at the sky. When darkness overcomes us we tend to look to the skies. Tagore’s message is something to remember when we behold those enchanting sunsets in the midst of tough times.
Sunsets mirror our lives in many ways. They are transient. Although unfailingly regular it’s never the same in appearance even at the same venue. So much like our own lives changing from day to day and from year to year, sometimes the ‘clouds’ hiding the beauty within.
Sunset ushers in the end of the day and the conclusion of our toils. It brings on the silence of the night and the peace that comes with it. During my sojourn in Arabia I found the Muhsin’s melodious evening call for prayer from his minaret, hypnotic, as the sunset across the ever-changing sand dunes. I grew up living opposite a church in Nugegoda. Every evening at 6 pm the church bells rang rhythmically and gave us kids a clue it is time to wind down and find refuge in our homes. This reminds me of Gray’s Elegy written in a Country Churchyard.
The curfew tolls the knell of parting day,
The lowing herd wind slowly o’er the lea,
The ploughman homeward plods his weary way,
And leaves the world to darkness and to me.
By Thomas Gray (1716-1771)
Despite its beauty Sunset ushers in the dusk, darkness and drawbacks. It is true people don’t fear the darkness of the night as they used to. In the tropics, the night energisers hordes of mosquitoes to torment us in waves! Worldwide it is a busy time for thieves and burglars to earn their living, leaving behind a catalogue of grief.
Sunsets we have stored in our memories are linked to places and people. In 1962 my parents lived in Weligama. It was a daily ritual to visit the Rest House to see the setting sun and watch the fishing boats with their flickering lamps disappear into the horizon. This also brings back the joys of my youth when I had all my life before me. It is a reminder of the time spent with my parents and their infinite love and care. When my best friend was a doctor in Hingurakgoda in 1971, I spent a weekend with him. One evening we sat on the bund of the Minneriya Tank watching the sun go down. The sky was orange with a dazzlingly beautiful cloud formation. There were flocks of geese flying in V- formation while a multitude of bats were taking to the skies. I remember with such clarity hearing a lone bamboo flute playing the haunting melody of "Ranwan Karalin Pasila" made famous by Susil Premaratne. It was a sublime experience. Sadly, my friend and his wife are no more and my parents too have now crossed the vale. But I will cherish these effusive memories forever.
I am born a dreamer. Once it nearly cost me my life. I was living at the Jeewaka Medical Hostel in 1966 and was preparing for the "finals". It was a comfortable but humble dwelling on Turret Road. After a long afternoon of study, I walked to the Colpetty beach with a friend, to sit on a rock and watch the sunset. We often talked about things spiritual to relax and unwind. As darkness fell we started to walk back, deep in thought. When I was about to cross the railway line, my friend pulled me back with great force - and I saw the train go whizzing past me. I could feel the heat of the steam and coal and was just inches away from a certain death.
It must be the diurnal variations caused by our hormones which make us more serene and emotional past sunset and a lot more amorous and sensual too. With all its beauty, sunset ushers in a seedy aspect to life and none more graphic than the wartime music of Marlene Dietrich, then a symbol of sophistication and titillation. These were popular when WWII was raging. The song ‘Lili Marlene’ conjures up images of a young lady waiting under a gas street lamp for her Army lover to return.
Underneath the lantern
By the barrack gate
Darling I remember
The way you used to wait
‘Twas there that you whispered tenderly
That you loved me
You’d always be ………
My Lili of the lamplight
My own Lili Marlene
Everything that has a beginning also has an end. For the light of the day, sunset is its end. It is a reminder for us all of our own mortality and also a memory of those who have gone before us. It enlightens us to use our time wisely and to keep our thoughts calm and peaceful. For us older folk, these are our sunset years. The simple thought that we leave this earth as we came, with nothing, appeals to our generosity and altruism.
In my retirement I made a special attempt to see the places I’ve always wanted to see. I recall with much nostalgia the sunset at Angkor Wat seen from the top of the thousand year old temple. It is now being restored by the Cambodian government. The southern hemisphere has its own beguiling sunsets. Gordon’s Bay sheltered by the Helderberg mountains in Cape town provides a wonderful vantage point to watch the sunset knowing well there is no land beyond its horizon before the South Pole. South America is unlike anywhere else on earth for its climate, mood and scenery. Sunsets across the breath-taking landscape of the Atacama Desert showing the reflections of the sky on the sand dunes is stunning. The kaleidoscope of vivid colours at sunset seen across the Magellan straits in Punta Arenas in Chile is an awesome spectacle that will remain with me forever.
I have kept the best for the last. A visit to Agra is a unique experience as it unravels its enigmatic mysteries of the Mughal Empire. The sad story of the Taj Mahal has resonated through history and its magical beauty fails to hide its grief and torment. The sunset beyond the Yamuna river with the shiny white marble of the Taj Mahal as a back drop is a sight fit for the Gods.
My grateful thanks go to my parents for taking me to watch this nature’s beauty as a child. My life was enriched by the sunsets I saw from the historical elegance of the Ramparts in Galle, the splendour of the Galle Face Green and by the weathered rocks near the New Rest House in Negombo. Although I preferred to suck Aleric’s Ice Cream and chase frolicking brown crabs in the sand, the sunsets have left a lasting impression on my psyche to bring peace to my soul
.I dedicate this note to my parents as they lie in the Churchyard of St Mary and St John in Nugegoda listening to the tolling of Church Bells, in calm silence. May their Souls Rest in Peace.
Meanwhile the sun will continue to rise and set until the end of time.
Nihal, thank you very much for the excellent combination of prose and verse!I grew up at 47, 42nd Lane, Wellawatte,with only the railway line between our house and the Indian ocean. Few of you all have visited me, such as Lucky A.Sunsets were taken for granted as it was a daily occurrence, as long as I lived there. Unfortunately that house is no more;acquired by the state for construction of the Marine Drive. I was left with a narrow strip of land, a little over six perches. I built a three floor building with a roof garden and it has been leased for commercial purposes which brings me a tidy income.
ReplyDeleteSanath
Sanath
ReplyDeleteThank you for the comment. I do remember 42nd Lane as my relatives lived there. It was such a beautiful and quiet place.
Another wonderful literary effort from ND. I too found sunsets intriguing and always viewed them with wonderment. If I had a camera with me, I would always take a series of photographs. This was not easy those days but mobile phones with camera facilities are now universal and makes the task so much easier.
ReplyDeleteThe reverse is also true, I mean sunrise. It may not have the mystic value of sunset but nevertheless, the manner in which the sky changes could be memorable. Sunrise at Siripada with the casting of its shadow on the clouds below is something I shall never forget. I too have witnessed the Taj Mahal both at Sunrise and Sunset;another memorable experience. The sunset at Uluru in Australia is also worth a mention as the colour of the rock changes minute by minute (a reminder that colour does not exist as such and is only a perception). The sight of this enormous rock sitting in the middle of nowhere is just fascinating.
ND quite correctly dwells on the philosophical thoughts that sweep through our minds as we reflect on the true nature of the Universe and Life. I am more and more impressed by how insignificant we are in this massive Universe and the futility of pursuing material and personal gains.
Finally, we too lived in Nugegoda for several years. We lived at Melder Place in the early 50s and Chirasri Mallwarachchi and family lived there too and we had many happy times together with nothing but our imagination and wits to help us play as TV, Computers and other distractions were unknown. I attended St Joseph's convent Girls only after 2nd std I think) and then went to St Thomas's Kollupitiya. Quinlon and Metro cinemas, JPA De Mel Petrol station, High Level Road buses, KV line, rickshaw that took me to school...........
Wonderful memories and thanks again ND, the Bard of ColomboMedgrads1962!
Mahen
ReplyDeleteThanks pal. I too remember visiting Melder Place to see Chirasri with my cousin as we all went to St John's Girls School in Nugegoda in the early 1950's. Its a small world as they say. Went to watch Sinhala cinema to Metro and Quinlon to get bitten by bed bugs while enjoying the show. The rickshaw stand was opposite our house by the church. Recall the carnival they had at St Josephs Convent annually - bombay mutai - galore. Took the KV line 7.17am from Nugegoda to Baseline Rd and 3.35 back
Saw the sunset at Uluru too.
Most of what I say in the comment below are from a private e-mail that I sent ND yesterday.
ReplyDeleteAs often happens with his many regular contributions to the blog, I post them first and then read them later! I realised some time ago that even attempting to edit what he writes is a useless exercise.
Sanath Lama says that ND's article is an excellent combination of prose and verse. I described ND's present article as a masterpiece - a fine combination of literary stuff combined with his clear description of his travels. It took me back to 1953 when we read and studied Gray's Elegy written in a country churchyard. Every time I pass St. Mary's and St. John's church in Nugegoda, I am reminded of ND's beloved parents whom I knew. That goes for Jeevaka as well (now demolished), and the story of his walk towards the Kollupitiya beach one evening, sometime probably in 1967. As you all know, Turret Road on which the Buddhist Medical Hostel Jeewaka stood those days, is now called Dharmapala Mawatha named after Anagarika Dharmapala. That name is one of the few new ones that have stuck on for good. We who now live in Sri Lanka, always refer to old Turret Road as Dharmapala Mawatha. The older name "Turret" is all but forgotten. But not so the former name Deans Road. We still call it Deans Road but not by the relatively new name (named after a Buddhist monk). So also Dickmans Road (now Lester James Peiris Mawatha) in Havelock Town, and Kirula Road (now renamed Bernard Soysa Mawatha) which we are so familiar with.
Let's hope that ND will continue his interest in contributing to the blog. Like Speedy, he too has helped me immensely in running the batch blog.
Lucky
DeleteThank you. You do make me blush. This is nothing more than a bit of writing to while-away my time. I don't consider it anything more than that. If its strikes a chord with some readers that would please me no end. There are many who contribute comments to this blog in brilliant prose but don't write articles, for whatever reason. I only wish they do.
Thanks Lucky. It is my pleasure to help you but without you, there wouldn't have been a Blog and we are all very grateful to you. We have a regular group of contributors now and I am certain many more belonging to the "silent majority".
ReplyDeleteNihal, Another masterpiece- The sunsets reflected on the sand dunes of Arabia must have been so beautiful-
ReplyDeleteI wonder whether you visited the Bryce Canyon in Colorado-
I know everyone who visits anywhere there visit the Grand Canyon which is magnificent. Bryce Canyon, though smaller is breathtakingly beautiful with its orangey red glow- gorgeously enhanced at sunset.
Thank you for this fine treatise on sunsets- May your loving parents Rest In Peace.
Rohini, must add Bryce Canyon to my growing list of places to go. Looks amazing! https://www.mygrandcanyonpark.com/road-trips/utahs-bryce-canyon-country
DeleteMahen, It is incredibly beautiful and would be well worth the visit-
DeleteThere is something so intricate and artistic about it .
Nihal,
ReplyDeleteThank you for writing this beautiful essay. Sunsets have a meditative way of calming one's mind. I am always mesmerized by the swiftly changing colors. Like life itself, there have to be a few clouds in the sky for the sunset to elicit the magnificent colors, and for us to appreciate them. Your parents taught you to appreciate nature and the sunsets -bless them! Like Mahen, I try to capture the ever changing sunsets with the camera or iPhone, but it does not equal the experience of being still and just gazing at the sky, whether it be by the ocean or on a mountaintop. I lived on Rajasinghe Road, Wellawatte (not far from Sanath Lama) from about age 9 until I entered Medical College, and during school vacations we often walked down the street to enjoy the sunset.
One of my most recent 'sunset experiences' was last January, when I was returning from Kandy with my two visiting American friends by car, through Kadugannawa Pass. Our timing could not have been better, because the sun was setting and the sky was ablaze with bright oranges and reds, the patterns changing constantly. My friends were so awestruck and wanted to take pictures every time we came around another bend in the road. Our driver was a really good sport and kept pulling over whenever he could so that they could take their pictures. I had not seen such a beautiful sight in the recent past and was so grateful that Mother Nature put on such a good show for my friends. One cannot plan a sunset, it just happens!
Thank you Srianee for your kind comments and lovely memories
DeleteSrianee, the place in Wellawatte does not ring any bells with me although I am sure I have been there. Your journey with friends down from Kandy is always full of beautiful scenery with or without the sun events but I too have experienced what you saw that day. It was truly wondrous.
DeleteMahen, Of course, you won't remember that house because my mother decided to move out of there after my father passed away. We moved to Mt.Lavinia, almost next door to STC (where she was teaching, and my brothers were attending school) and then later to Rockwood Place where she later bought the property. That charming old house does not exist any more, but my youngest brother has built a very nice apartment complex in its place, and I have the pleasure of staying there when I am in Colombo!
DeleteMahen, one more thing that I wanted to say; one of the friends who rode down with me that day is an accomplished artist and art teacher. She has been traveling all over the world this past year and has created many beautiful paintings documenting her travels and quite a few are from Sri Lanka. I saw them at an exhibition recently. Perhaps she may not mind sharing some of those images with my friends. If you all think it is OK we could post some of those images on our Blog. I'll check with Lucky too.
DeleteThat would be most welcome Srianee! I hope your friend consents as I am sure Lucky would be delighted to oblige.
DeleteSrianee, I remember your residence very well. Our GP at that time, Dr. Karunaratne, lived in your house or the next door. I remember my mother taking me in a rickshaw quite often to be treated by him. He used to prescribe various powders and mixtures, all of which had an awful taste !
ReplyDeleteSanath
Awful taste equates to efficacy! Talking of rickshaws, when I was 5 years plus and was taken by a rickshaw man to school, it never struck me how sad it was to see this poor chap in slippers and white turban pulling me along and working so hard.
DeleteHi Mahen and Sanath, Yes, Dr. Karu was our neighbor on the Galle Road side of our house. I remember that he had a 'dispensary' at the back of the house where all the medicines were probably created! My parents had a neighborly relationship with Dr. and Mrs. Karu. but I don't think we were ever his patients. Mahen, don't feel bad about your rickshaw puller, you probably didn't weigh much at age 5!!
DeleteSrianee, you have made me feel a whole lot better!
DeleteMahendra, look for my comment to one of yours.
ReplyDeleteia
Indra, is it for a previous post? Can't see one here
DeleteYes, in reference to your trip to the national parks in the USA.
DeleteFrom Zita. I am so sorry my comment is so delayed. I wrote the following some days ago and in the rush of these first few days of the New Year, I had overlooked placing it on the comments section after your last contribution:
ReplyDeleteAmen, I say to Nihal as I finish reading his authentic, real life, honest and very readable account in a ‘nut shell’ of a blog article, of practically his whole life. Only Nihal is capable of such a feat. Nihal, you have given us a page as it were of your life in the various stages of your life. My ‘Amen’ is because I find a true parallel in my own life even though the places are different. As Nihal says, it is cathartic to write about the loss of once past but writing about it in this manner is the best way to let it rest and accept it so one feels completely at peace. Thank you, Nihal, for sharing with us this beautiful piece of writing! We appreciate every word you said and we wish you and your dear family all the best in life!
From, Zita, your friend and fan of your writings.
Zita
ReplyDeleteThank you. I certainly don’t deserve such high praise. It is just a page from my life as you’ve rightly said. Many from our batch write brilliantly. They prefer to keep their talents under a bushel as the old biblical saying goes. Your Feedback is much appreciated and thank you. Look forward to our meeting in London with Mahendra and Joe
Dear Friends,
ReplyDeleteI am planning to visit England in June. Please organise a reunion in London and invite as many friends as possible.
Sanath
Sanath
DeleteGood news. We will no doubt see you in London. Pram is our queen of the London Reunion. Please keep her informed.
Look forward to seeing you
That will be great if your friends work appear in the blog.
ReplyDeleteia