Sunday, July 11, 2021

SRIANEE FAST FORWARDS US TO THE PRESENT!

 SMALL TOWN USA - SUMMER 2021

A holiday experience I was fortunate enough to manage in these difficult times..... Srianee "Bunter" Dias. 

After a seemingly endless winter of being “stuck” in my West Hartford , Connecticut home I was beginning to get edgy and restless.  My annual departure to Sri Lanka via Germany was out of the question in January 2021.  An idea was beginning to germinate in my mind.  Since travel abroad was not permitted, what if I could make a road trip when the weather and other conditions improved?  The COVID-19 vaccination rates in the US were on an upward trajectory so this seemed like a definite possibility. 

In late March 2021 I flew to Florida visit my older daughter.  (This was my first plane trip since I returned from Sri Lanka in March 2020!)  During my visit I connected with my friend Marsha, who had moved to Florida from Connecticut a few years ago. She had also been “grounded” by the international travel restrictions. I shared with her my idea of visiting small towns in other parts of the US with the goal of observing and listening to people who were different from those who were familiar to us, in our part of the country (i.e. “The Blue States.”) My curiosity had peaked after the events of January 6th.  Meanwhile, Marsha herself had also set an unusual goal for herself; to have conversations with 1000 strangers within a year! 

Our ideas came together quickly and by June 10th 2021 we were on the road heading north to the Adirondack region in New York State.  A final destination was not set. (Friends and family compared us to “Thelma and Louise” - a movie that I had not yet seen!)  At first we were cautious, booking places to stay 2 days ahead, because I was not looking forward to sleeping in the car! But soon we were “winging it” and began booking hotels a few hours ahead.  

The Adirondack area is a Forest Preserve in New York State, consisting of 6 million acres of forests, lakes and wetlands, with many recreational opportunities.  (Skiing, camping, fishing, boating etc.) There is a mixture of private property and state owned land in that area. We probably could have spent a week exploring the area, but after spending one night in the rustic “Black Mountain Lodge” near North Creek, we headed to the Finger Lakes region, also in New York State, where the landscape was breathtaking.  Geologists believe that the Finger Lakes were created about 550 million years ago by melting glaciers. In addition to the eleven long and narrow lakes, many gorges and waterfalls dot the area. 

As we travelled northward into New York State we discovered places in several lovely little towns which were perfect for “pit stops,” One such discovery was a General Store in Jacksonville, Vermont. 
In Greenwich, New York, at Lynn’s Cafe. we had a slice of a supremely delicious chocolate cake with peanut butter frosting!  By the third day on the road we realized that we needed to spend less time driving and more time savoring the small towns, talking and listening to the people who lived in those places.
 In Western Pennsylvania we visited Falling Waters, in Mill Run, which is the location of an iconic house designed by the famous architect, Frank Lloyd Wright.  This unusual home is built on cantilevers over a waterfall! We met a few interesting people there, including a young architect from Iran, who now lives North Carolina.
In Fairmont, West Virginia, we dined at 'DJ’s 50s and 60s Diner which was decorated in the 50s and 60s style.  The friendly waitresses were happy to share their stories with us, including the fact that their diner was the location for filming a zombie movie!

On our way to Ohio we decided to take an exit off the highway to visit a really tiny town, Ellenboro, West Virginia, where the population had shrunk from 363 in 2010 to 217 in 2019. (Marsha was accessing these tidbits on her smart phone while I was driving!). In just 5 minutes we had driven past all the buildings in the town, but then we spotted something curious.  As I was turning the car around to get back to the highway, we noticed a logo on a truck belonging to Sewer and Water Company.  It looked like a glass-blower!  As we were puzzling over this riddle (what did glass blowing have to do with sewers?) we spotted two guys getting into the truck and asked them what the connection was.  They informed us that the town once had a thriving glass factory and suggested that we talk to “Sammy” who lived in the red brick house up the street.  We drove a few feet up the street and found Sam Hogue, a former employee of the glass factory, who now makes glass marbles! The marbles range in size from

small machine made marbles, like the ones we played with as kids, up to large ones that were really works of art, that one could proudly display on a shelf.  There were numerous jars and egg cartons containing hundreds of thousands of marbles filling his workshop and garage from floor to ceiling.  The garage also housed a Model T Ford!  Sam Hogue was an interesting character who was a legend in his town and had been featured in a television special! Who knew that we would meet a TV personality in this remote little town? (One can find him on Google under “Hillbilly Marble Maker!”) 

We discovered ethnic restaurants in the most unlikely places.  A Lebanese restaurant in Parkersburg, West Virginia and a Peruvian restaurant in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, examples of how the world is changing.  Both places had survived the lockdowns of last year because of the “kindness of loyal customers.” 

In Adams County, in southern Ohio, we visited the Great Serpent Mound.  This is an effigy mound which is believed to have been created by ancient Native American cultures. It is in the shape of a huge long serpent with a curled tail, extending over 1348 feet.  It is probably best viewed from a low flying aircraft. The significance is still a mystery and archaeologists don’t have all the answers. It is not a burial mound, but may have astrological significance. -The age is also still being disputed.  Some research archaeologists suggest that it was built sometime between 800 BCE to 100 CE. Others have dated it as CE 1000 to CE1500. 


It is a National Historic Landmark and may soon be recognized as a UNESCO Cultural Heritage Site.  The kind site manager spent a long time answering our questions and giving us a brief history of the place.  The weekend after our visit was the summer solstice, and thousands of people were expected at the site, because on that day the sun sets directly over the head of the serpent effigy.  (At the winter solstice the tail points to the sunrise.)
 

During lunch at a restaurant in the nearby town of Peebles, we couldn’t help overhearing an older man’s irate cellphone conversation in the booth behind us. He was expressing his frustration over thefts of gasoline from the tractors on his property.  He was threatening to “take out” the perpetrators because the police were not doing anything about it.  When my friend got up to refill her water bottle, she made eye contact with him and told him that although she didn’t mean to eavesdrop, she realised that he had a big problem, and wished him success in solving it. He promptly asked her to sit down and began complaining about the authorities who were not interested in controlling crime in the area.  I joined them soon afterwards and we listened to him for at least 20 minutes while he vented.  He felt that using his “Smith and Wesson” was the only way to deal with the thieves!  We hoped that after the “therapy session” with us that he calmed down and found another way to deal with his problem!  Apparently, GE had been the main employer in the area, but recent cutbacks had increased unemployment and were forcing town dwellers to travel over 50 miles to jobs in big cities.  He was describing the plight of many small towns.  How much longer will they survive? 

On our way back to our car we stopped to admire an unusual building, which appeared to be a commercial establishment, but displayed exquisite landscaping.  While we were taking photographs, a young man who had noticed our Connecticut license plates approached us and asked if we would like to go inside.  He was a high school history teacher who had just started his summer vacation.  He escorted us inside the building which happened to be a “Wood Depot” constructed with all the different types of timber that they sell to builders.  Our guide escorted us up and down Main Street giving us a brief history of the town.  He showed us a mural on the side of a building painted by a town resident “Welcoming People to Peebles!”  He also gave us very helpful suggestions of places to visit in Kentucky where we were heading next. 

We were truly experiencing the kindness of strangers. 

…To be continued…

28 comments:

  1. Hi,Srianne,I read your article with a lot of interest. I thought America is not a safe country to venture with a female companion. Small towns and country side seems most welcoming, when compared with larger cities.
    I am looking forward to see the continuation of your itinerary.

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  2. Hi Sumathi,
    I am glad you found this interesting. About safety, I have lived alone in the US for a very long time now, and try to be sensible when driving around alone. One has to be "street smart" and always aware of the surroundings. At no time on this trip did we feel unsafe. One cannot assume that small towns are safer than big cities. A long time ago when I was doing a locum tenens assignment in a small town in Georgia, the Cytotechnologist advised me not to drive around on my own in the area. She said "Doc, you should go straight from the hospital to your hotel. I carry a pistol in my truck!" I did follow her advice, and luckily didn't have to stay there more than two weeks.

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  3. I too found this account very interesting and entertaining to read. I hope more of our mates (buddies, chaps, ghuys) share their vacation stories. I was also pleasantly surprised that 2 ladies could venture out quite safely. Perhaps we only hear about the bad side 9as they are more newsworthy- one of my patients told me that she has stopped watching the News of TV and she feels much better as a result. She said that it should not be called "The News" but "The Bad News"!)

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    1. Mahen, it helped that my friend and I are both optimists and accustomed to putting up with travel crises/mishaps. I got my car checked out before leaving, our cell phones were always charged, and I had my AAA (Automobile Association of America) card with me. Although we did hit some spots where there was no cell phone signal. We were also careful, and checked in to our hotels/motels before dark. It helped to have black-belts in Karate too. (Just kidding!)
      Interestingly, we didn't watch any TV while we were traveling, so we didn't subject ourselves to "Bad News." Your patient had a valid point.

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    2. I can see the importance of meticulous planning and attention to detail. (I would expect this from a Pathologist!)

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  4. Srianee, I have added a photo of the Mound. It sounds amazing!

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    1. Thanks. Yes, it was difficult to appreciate the whole effect of the Mound from the ground level. There was a tower but those who ventured up (not me!) couldn't see the entire Mound from that height. They are still trying to figure out the significance of this Mound.

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  5. Hi Bunter
    Though I did not travel all these areas but I am quite familiar with some of the places you visited. The finger lakes region is very familiar to me having been in Rochester New York for nearly a decade. Intact I used to visit a small town in the fingerlakes once a week running a GYN clinic at the state University. Also I interviewed for a position in Lancaster Pennsylvania part of Hearshy Medical School.During the time that my kids were looking for Colleges I too drove through New England states and did stay in some small towns. They were quaint and with lots of history. I too remember touring Scotland and Devon and cornwall, they too had very quaint and interesting towns.In fact my wife and I recall them often. Great trip Bunter Plan your next to the West coast.

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    1. Rajan, maybe I will, but not when there are wildfires!

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  6. Hi Srianee
    Very interesting journey,both of you have been adventurous but sensible and careful at the same time.I do not think I would have done it at my stage in life.The main thing is you had a good time,the locals were welcoming and you were safe.

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  7. Hi Bora,
    Thanks for taking the time to read this. I didn't think that too many people would be interested in our "adventure." The purpose was more than to have an enjoyable experience. We also wanted to learn something more about people who lived in other parts of this vast country. (I'm sure you have been reading about "Divided America") We were pleasantly surprised. Even the angry guy in the restaurant in Ohio, who wanted to "take out" the people who were stealing from him with a Smith and Wesson, treated us with respect. The people we met were not so different from us. I am hoping that they are also saying the same thing about us.

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  8. Srianne,having naturalised as a US citizen, surely you had the courage& determination to explore the unknown.And also you have the freedom to do what you want.I would like to do the same sort of tour, if not for my age and the current health issues.Weldone,you our regular columnist.

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  9. Sorry about the silly, spelling error.It should read as well done and not Weldone.

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  10. Hi Bunter I found your description of your travelling holiday very interesting. Your photographs are also captivating. I am impressed by your adventurous spirit.
    Did you find the long drives soothing ? Having a navigator with you makes it so much more easy but in these modern days I suppose every body uses a Google map.
    It's great to know that even over there locals are friendly and happy to spend time chatting. This is an endearing quality we find across the globe.
    Sri Lankan villagers are renowned for their hospitality . How many hours did you spend on the road each day ?? The longest I've ever done is 300km from Colombo to Moneragala when Shaan was doing his internship down there. It took me 4:1/2 to 5 hours of non stop driving each way in our Pajero with manual gears. It was was breathtaking driving over the Udawalawe bund you felt as if you were about to take off in a flight. We would often see wild elephants grazing by the road , but they never bothered us. We used to drive down almost once every two months during that year. It is nice to get away from it all isn't it and going on your own steam makes it all the more enjoyable. Please do take care .

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    1. Suri, I'm glad you found this interesting. There is so much we can experience outside our own comfort zone and everyday routine. Yes, I did find the drives relaxing and enjoyable. I am grateful that I still do, and that I am not intimidated by long drives. (I take rest breaks, of course.) Many of my friends tell me that they find long drives stressful. At the beginning of our trip we drove for about 5-6 hours and later decided to spend less time on the road. We may have driven about 3-4 hours a day after the third day. I think it is possible to do something like this in any country. Perhaps finding places to stay may have to be planned ahead depending on availability. Chatting with the "locals" is always very rewarding. I would love to hear more about places off the beaten track in Sri Lanka, rather than the usual touristy, fancy hotels. During my past visits I stayed in a small hotel in Ohiya and a lovely Bed and Breakfast in Haputale. Both were very enjoyable experiences.

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  11. Bunter
    I am amazed at your braveness to venture into the country on such a trip with only another female especially during this time of Covid infection. Hats off to your courage!
    I enjoyed reading your narration and I am sure you would have had high Fun! Great trip. Chira

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  12. As Suri has commented, it is a travel report well illustrated with carefully chosen visuals. I look forward to the continuation.

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  13. Srianee
    A fascinating travelogue so beautifully written. I can’t wait to read the next chapter. It must be said you both have pulled off an audacious adventure with a great deal of courage and have enjoyed every bit of it. There is much of that friendly kindness still around as I have experienced myself in my travels.

    On every trip I have made to the USA I have rented a car and driven around in California, Texas, Florida and Virginia. In those journeys not once did I experience any troublesome people but recall with much nostalgia the courtesy, goodwill and the kind hospitality. This is far removed from what we hear and see on TV and films and read in the newspapers.

    Our two sons while in University travelled to Sri Lanka on their own steam visiting the remote towns and villages. They also enjoying the elegance of the grand hotels. They speak warmly of the friendliness and the generous hospitality of Sri Lankans.

    My thoughts often go back to the famous travellers of old, the Moroccan - Ibn Battuta (circa 14th century), Italian - Marco Polo (circa 14th century) and Fa-Hsien from China (1st century). They travelled when the journeys were slow, long, treacherous and dangerous. There were no proper maps and depended largely on hear say and human kindness. In those days People were vary of foreigners and there was a great likelihood of ending up in a prison or even being killed. They have chronicled their trips beautifully and graphically.

    I recall reading as a teenager “A historical relations of the island of Ceylon” by Robert Knox and being simply enthralled by his account of life in Ceylon of the 17th century. Robert Knox was a sailor for the British East India Company and was shipwrecked in the Indian Ocean. He was held captive by King Rajasinghe II for 20 years. On his return home he wrote his memoirs which made him famous. It is said that the book influenced Daniel Defoe to write “Robinson Crusoe”

    Travel is still in my thoughts having returned from a holiday in Scotland last night. A welcome change from the Covid induced incarceration of 18 months.

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  14. Chira, Lucky and Nihal, thank you for taking the trouble to read my account of our travels, and for your kind comments. We were not nearly as brave as the early explorers Nihal has described, going out into the unknown, because our roads were good and the accommodations comfortable. We did hear about the professor (Dr. Putnam) from Harvard who had arrived with his equipment and team on oxcarts to excavate the Great Serpent Mound in Ohio in the 1800s, I think.
    As Nihal described, there is so much stereotyping being done by the media, depicting people from the rural southern and mid western states in negative ways, that it was so rewarding to discover that this was not so.
    Nihal, I am glad you got away to Scotland. I hope to get there some day! I am finishing up my next chapter and will send it to Mahen soon.

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    1. How about sharing your Scottish experience Nihal? he could weave a story and bring in history, such as that of the pioneering Scotsman James Taylor, who was only sixteen when he left Scotland in 1852 to sign on for three years as an assistant supervisor on a coffee plantation in Ceylon. The son of a modest wheelwright from Kincardineshire would never see his native country again. Taylor's employers, Harrison and Leake, were so impressed by the quality of his work that they put the eager young Scot in charge of the Loolecondera Estate, near Kandy, in the late 1850s and instructed him to experiment with sowing tea seeds on the 19 acres of land. A variety of tea from China had been grown in Ceylon many years earlier with mixed results.

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    2. Mahen
      Such a long journey to Scotland and back. Will think of something to write when the APR declines. It was wonderful to be with family after such a long separation. Felt like I've come out of prison.

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  15. I did send my comments but for whatever reason it did not get Published. About half a century ago my wife and I then newly weds decided to tour Scotland by car. My wife at that time was working in Lancaster as a house officer in a Derm hospital and I was in London as SHO in Ob. After picking my wife, we drove through Preston and onto Glascow. I remember staying in a farm B&B, and we checked in we were given a room up in the attic which had been converted with an attached bath and toilet, much like a penthouse, while the other floors had rooms but with shared bath and toilets, maybe we were given that room because the receptionist I think was the wife of the owner, wanted to provide us with quiet and privacy though I was in a mood to party. When we came down for dinner, which they also provided I was offered a glass of Scotch, neat, and being a beer drinker at that time I requested a glass of beer and was politely told that did not stock beer only scotch. Next morning when we came down for breakfast we were provided with the finest English breakfast I have eaten. Fresh eggs fresh bacon and sausages and home made bread all from the farm. Our next stop I think was Fort William. Here too we stayed in a B&B and that evening we took a short walk to this pretty one street downtown for dinner. After dinner we stopped at a PUB for a drink, and while there, a group of young scots gals and guys, camein, and while gulping the beer, started singing with a guitar and Piano. Soon they invited us to join them, and I too started gulping the beer and time came when the PUIb closed these young scots serenaded us back to our B&B a v eery joyful evening. We then drove to Aberdeen along Loch Lommond but did not see the monster, to spend a few days with my consultant who was holidaying with his family in his home town. On to Edinburgh for a few days visited my fathers University and then back home. "Oh to be young again"Those were the days my friends.

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    1. Rajan, that was a good read. You obviously enjoyed your stay and your memories appear still fresh in your mind. Scotland is a beautiful country to visit. I have at various timnes, been to most oft he places you mention.

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    2. Rajan
      What a lovely story and a wonderful memory to cherish. You must have stayed in the same B&B that my wife and I stayed in 1976 on our honeymoon. We were part of that Farmer's family for our stay. We sat by their fire in the evening and I helped him to finish his bottle of whisky. Ours was in a quaint town called Dollar just next to Sterling.
      Great to hear from you. Stay well and stay safe.

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  16. Rajan, I enjoyed reading about your adventures in Scotland. I’m glad that your memory was jogged. Scotland has always fascinated me. Maybe I will get there someday...

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  17. Thanks for all your comments. ND the town of Sterling seems to ring a bell , where in Scotland is it located, could be the same B&B farm house. Come to think of it I too ended drinking scotch that night with the owner cum farmer and his wife.

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  18. Rajan
    Sterling appears on the map between Glasgow and Edinburgh but is actually on the M80 motorway to Perth and Dundee. Dollar is a smaller town of several farms very close to Sterling.
    1976 was the year of an unusual heatwave in the UK. I had just got my brand new VW Polo and took off on the trip to Scotland. I remember staying in the attic of that B&B in Dollar managed by a young and friendly couple. I think the Farm was called the Dollar Farm. farmer and his wife did join in the whisky at night and we were treated like members of their family. I just can't lay my hands on the photo we took as we departed and we were sad to leave Dollar.

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  19. Thanks ND your description of the farmhouse sounds very familiar though my memory of the farmer and his wife were a middle age couple. As for the location sounds like the right spot somewhere on the west side as we were driving up from Lancaster and remember passing Dundee. What a coincidence an attic to stay and scotch with the farming couple.

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