The Carnival of Venice. Nihal D Amerasekera

The Carnival of Venice

By Dr Nihal D Amerasekera

I was just a child in 1952 when my father was transferred to Gampaha. Formerly called Henarathgoda, it is a town made up by the merging of five villages. When Sir Edward Barnes, a British Governor, paid a visit to the area in 1825, it was a dense forest.  He decided to construct a railway through the area and to have a station at Henarathgoda. This effectively ignited great interest in the area.

In the 1950’s Gampaha was still a small town and amazingly peaceful. It could not boast of lush green mountains or a deep blue sea, but the air was clean and the people were friendly. It was a place of beauty, loveliness and enchantment. Its claim to fame was the Botanical Gardens where Ceylon’s first rubber tree was planted.

As the British left us in 1948, we were free to rule ourselves. I was then far too young to appreciate the vast political and social changes taking place around me. I was happily oblivious to these enormous changes but as I grew up, learnt to accept them like the rest of my countrymen. The crucial goal of uniting Sri Lanka's people was overshadowed by the melee of parliamentary politics. It is easier to be scornful of the past than of the present. With the introduction of free education and healthcare, lives changed for the better for the many.

We then lived in a splendid old house on Colombo Road, Gampaha opposite the Government Hospital. It was the ancestral home of Cyril Goonetilleke, a property tycoon, entrepreneur and socialite who had inherited tremendous wealth. The house had water on tap and flushing toilets, then a luxury anywhere outside the metropolis. Cyril was away in London studying for his law degree. He left the front room of the house for himself loaded with his paraphernalia. Being a teenager, I was curious. I surreptitiously crept into his room to explore its treasures. There was a bed, a desk and several old cupboards full of clothes and books. They were covered in layers of dust. On the floor was a His Masters Voice (HMV) winding-up gramophone. Next to it was a dust-ridden stack of 78 RPM vinyl records. Most of it didn’t appeal to me. I loved the “Carnival of Venice” and played it repeatedly. The hiss and crackle of worn-out needles was never a deterrent. This was a superb rendition beautifully played on the trumpet by Harry James who was a famous trumpeter of the 1940s. He was so well known for his virtuosity and lovely melodic style. This melody simply stuck to my memory.  I was delighted to hear it when played on the airwaves of Radio Ceylon.

The song "Carnival of Venice" is based on a Neapolitan folk song called "O Mamma, Mamma Cara". This was composed by Niccolò Paganini an Italian composer and violinist (1782 – 1840).  The music with a fast tempo was written for the solo coronet. He composed the Carnival of Venice circa 1829. As his fame grew, he indulged in excessive gambling and numerous romantic affairs. This took its toll and he had to pawn his violin to pay his debts. Despite his troubles Paganini’s music thrived and he became a director of music. His compositions and playing technique experienced great success in his appearances in Vienna, Paris and London. Sadly, Paganini’s life was blighted by the social consequences of his gambling habit which returned to trouble him until the end of his life.

During my teenage years, music had a very special appeal. 1955 saw the emergence of Rock 'N Roll music. Bill Haley succeeded in creating a music that appealed to youth because of its exciting backbeat, its urgent call to dance, and the action of its lyrics. The booming base and the twang of electric guitars produced a foot-tapping sound. Then the music of Elvis Presley and Cliff Richard and the Shadows was all-consuming to us teenagers. The music fashions changed constantly. In the 1960’s the music of the Beatles, Rolling Stones and others became popular. Although I enjoyed the new music my love for the “Carnival of Venice” never waned.

Indeed, time does fly. The years passed swiftly and relentlessly. The ebb and flow of my fortunes brought happiness and despair in equal measure. I had stepped on the treadmill to carve myself a career and raise a family. I finally settled in a leafy suburb in Hertfordshire 50 miles north of London. When our sons started to play musical instruments, I rekindled my love for the “Carnival of Venice”. They too loved the piece and played it often. I now could listen to the various versions of it played by different orchestras. The Mills brothers sang it in 1951 and I remember this being popular in Ceylon. The song, "How Much Is that Doggie in the Window?" is based on this tune and was a hit in 1952. Many artistes used the tune and made hits including Hank Snow and Danny Kaye. Most notable of those variations have been by the composer Joseph Jean-Baptiste Arban (1825–1889) who arranged the music for the cornet or trumpet. The one I listened most often is played on the clarinet by Duncan Prescott. This was simply the best for his sheer artistry and the control of his clarinet. The Harry James version still brings back nostalgic memories of Gampaha. Wynton Marsalis is an American classical trumpeter who plays it brilliantly with a modern style.

Meanwhile, the river of life has run on and youth passed into middle age. When I ended my professional career, it gave me the time to delve into the history of this magical piece of music. Venice is situated in the Veneto Region of Northeast Italy and spread over 118 small islands. It is considered as an architectural masterpiece. This city on water connects the many islands with over 400 bridges. Venice has had a tremendous influence on world architecture and monumental arts. Visitors arriving here is transported to a world of marbled palaces, bell towers, domes and gondolas. St. Mark's Basilica and its square has stood proudly at the heart of Venetian life for centuries.

The Venice Carnival is one of the oldest annual festivals in the world and dates back to 1162 AD. Legend has it, this was to celebrate a military victory over its enemy. But subsequently, the carnival became directly related to the Christian period of Lent. The word “carnival “is derived from the Latin word “Carne Vale” meaning “farewell to meat” to celebrate the Christian period of Lent when abstinence from meat is practiced for 40 days. The Venice Carnival takes place each year in February in St Mark’s Square in Venice. During the Carnival people paraded on the streets of Venice wearing colourful masks. This allowed them to protect their identity and remove any social differences. Unfortunately, when Venice came under the rule of Francis II in 1798 the Carnival was outlawed and almost completely disappeared for nearly two centuries. The carnival was revived in 1979 with its distinctive traditions and celebrations making Venice as one the best Carnival destinations for tourists from all over the world. This indeed rejuvenated Venice’s culture, heritage and economy. Every Spring people from across the world visit this floating city and take part in this unique celebration. The carnival is such a joyful event. It displays a riot of colour, magical music and an unforgettable spectacle. Colourful costumes, elaborate masks and fascinating historical re-enactments make this 2-week party an impressive experience.

The human memory is a miracle of nature. Like a time traveller, I have turned back the clock 7 decades.  I never returned to Gampaha town or the house ever again. The house was later bought by a doctor who razed it to the ground and built a 2-storey Surgery for his practice.

The “Carnival of Venice” still brings back many memories of my parents and friends who shared my life in Gampaha. It was a time of peace and contentment in my life. These nostalgic memories distil the spirit of an era now long gone. I dedicate these notes to my parents for their infinite love which sadly I could never fully reciprocate.