HARDANGER EMBROIDERY
BY DR. C. D. JAYAWEERA BANDARA
Hardanger Embroidery is a beautiful Norwegian embroidery that has counted thread and cutwork. That means that the stitches are made by counting the threads and making them in regular, even sizes on the fabric, and some of the background fabric is cut away.
Hardanger is a traditional district in the western part of Norway.
Hardanger embroidery is a form of embroidery traditionally worked with white thread on white even-weave linen or cloth.
Techniques include satin stitches and woven bars, leading to cutwork.
Two primary methods are used: drawn-thread work and counted-thread work.
Drawn- thread work removes threads to form patterns, while counted- thread work stitches over specific threads.
The Kloster stitch, made of satin stitches is essential for creating safe cutwork designs.
Tapestry needle is used. (Tip is slightly blunt)
Hardanger fabrics :-
These fabrics can be treated like Aida as they have two threads horizontally and vertically, giving a blocked appearance.
Modern Hardanger fabric is an evenweave cotton
material woven with pairs of threads, typically 22pairs of threads, typically
22pairs per linear inch in both directions, referred to as 22-count.
HARDANGER EMBROIDERY OF A TABLE MAT
Hardanger Fabric (seen below )
12-inch diameter circular frame
Tapestry needle ( Tip slightly blunt )
Fine scissors
Threads.
PHOTO 1 PHOTO 2
Above PHOTO 2 shows the Margin sewn with thicker white thread (1st stage)
PHOTO 3 2nd stage PHOTO 4 3rd stage
The
2nd stage and the 3rd stages were done with
thinner white thread.
PHOTO 5
Inside each coloured block seen in the above PHOTO 5.
‘EYELETS’ were done with lighter shades of green and pink threads as shown in this PHOTO 6 below.
PHOTO 6
PHOTO 7
3rd motif shows weaving done.
4th motif shows green, dark pink and white threads used in a particular design.
PHOTO 8
This shows the completed design in the 4 motifs above with green, dark pink and white threads.
PHOTO 9
The 2nd motif shows the diamond-shaped area was cut in certain areas and threads removed. Note that the remaining threads are always 4 in number.
The 3rd,4th and 5th motifs show ‘LOOPING PICOTS’ done.
PHOTO 10
This shows ‘LOOPING PICOTS’ done in all 5 motifs.
PHOTO 11
Completed table mat seen above.
PHOTO 12
This enlarged view is shown to appreciate the way the stitches were done and also to view the areas where the fabric was cut
Hardanger Embroidery is difficult to do. It needs a lot of concentration, patience, and it is time-consuming. It is very important to count the sewing threads always 5 and fabric threads always 4. If it is not done correctly, the fabric cannot be cut properly, and the threads cannot be removed. It is important to check the above regularly and unpick if there is a mistake, like doing cross stitching.
I have completed 2 tablemats and I hope to
do 6 more.
I am really pleased to post this wonderful article from Chira. It is well presented and shows how patient she is and how skilled she is. It comes as no surprise as she has shown before how well she combines her talent as a skilled Ophthalmic surgeon with her hobbies. We are very proud of you Chira.
ReplyDeleteMahendra
ReplyDeleteThank you very much for taking a lot of care and trouble in posting my article.
I appreciate greatly.
When you asked me to send some more paintings recently I said that I had sent 220 odd paintings to the Blog and that I don't have anything to paint and also that I have put aside those items used for painting.
I then mentioned to you that I am doing Hardanger embroidery now. You said to send to the Blog. I said men won't appreciate embroidery, you said to send. I had completed one tablemat but I had not taken any photos of the steps. I said I will take photos of every step and send.
I hope my Hardanger embroidery will be appreciated not only by women but also by men.
I must say you are taking great pains to keep our Blog alive. Long live our Blog !
Wishing you all the best.
Chira
Dear Chira, I found your article really fascinating. Thank you for documenting the process step by step, to help us understand how it is done. I remember some of the table cloths and napkins (serviettes) that were laid out on the tables of my grandmothers. There were similar techniques used (pulled threads, cutouts etc) so there may be similar embroidery styles in our traditional handicrafts too.
ReplyDeleteI like to sew, from time to time, but I never had the patience for embroidery. I can see why you were a good ophthalmologist. You needed to be meticulous and patient just like when you are now, doing this type of intricate embroidery. I think Mahen said the same thing in his comment,
I am curious; how did you hear about this type of embroidery, because I had never heard of Hardanger embroidery.
By the way, there are many men (mostly young guys) who like to knit and do needlepoint, so it is not just a female hobby. My grandson took some "lessons" in knitting from my daughter (his aunty) but I'm not sure if he is still knitting.
Real men are not afraid to own up to their feminine side!
Srianee
ReplyDeleteThank you very much for your comment which I appreciate greatly.
I saw my daughter in law's mother had done Hardanger embroidery. I will whatsapp to you one of her embroidery. She had gone for some classes. I was so impressed that I decided to do Hardanger embroidery.
I got her help to do the 1st tablemat.
To do the 'looping picot' was the most difficult. I had to unpick several times.I don't give up easily.
I went through the u tube and learnt to do it well. I have mastered the technique very well now.
When are you coming to Sri Lanka to settle down ?
Chira
Dear Chira,
ReplyDeleteI am absolutely speechless with admiration at your beautiful creations.
The fact that you are able to learn new techniques that require perseverance, and patience is absolutely amazing and reveals strength of your character!
Though I love hand embroidery and smocking, and enjoyed sewing for my two children and six grandchildren it's very much a thing of the past. The far from perfect vision, the slightly unsteady hands and difficulties in concentration have made them impossible!
Do continue to delight us all with your creativeness.
Suri
Suri
ReplyDeleteI am so thankful to you for appreciating my embroidery and admiring my handwork.
I am surprised at myself for knitting a cardigan according to a new method and sewing a Hardanger embroidery tablemat and finding them published in our Blog.
If there is a will there is a way. I am older than you, I have unsteady fingers at times but perseverance and self determination wins the day I feel.
Thanking you.
Chira
It is always a pleasure to post the various talents of our batchmates. Chira has always responded to me pleas to post on the blog! I wish more would. Our active medical days are over and it is good to exchange what we "old timers" do to keep busy. In my case , it is art, music, golf, philosophy, entertaining friends, reading books, catching up on almost ay tnopic on YouTube (wonderful source of knowledge), and doing a bit of voluntary stuff.
ReplyDeleteHello Chira
ReplyDeleteThe embroidery you’ve shared is delicate, charming, and truly beautiful. I can only imagine the thoughtful planning, patience, and incredible skill that went into creating such captivating work. The time and focus required must feel almost meditative—a peaceful escape from the rush of everyday life.
Thank you for keeping our blog vibrant with your lovely creations. It was such a pleasure meeting you and your daughter last year in England—memories we will always treasure.
Nihal
ReplyDeleteThank you very much for your lovely comment appreciating my Hardanger embroidery.
When I started doing this embroidery I never thought of sending it to our Blog as I thought men won't appreciate it. Mahendra said to send it. I had to take photos when I started doing the 2nd tablemat to show the steps.
If you look at the reply I gave Srianee you will understand how I decided to do this embroidery. It was very difficult to do the 'looping picots' I had to unpick several times. Then I went through the You tube and managed to master the technique. It was sheer determination that made me proceed with it. I don't give up easily. If there is awill there is a way.
It was lovely meeting all of you in September 2024 in London. Those memories I will always treasure.
Chira
ReplyDeleteChirasri, Your craftsmanship is incredible. Thank you for bringing to us your beautiful compositions built stitch by painstaking stitch ,each with purpose to construct a beautiful end product. Your patience and determination has turned your efforts into masterpieces. They are so beautiful.
I have indulged in smocking , cross stitching , embroidery and cutwork in those days when I should have been learning my books ! and really enjoyed them, but what you have mastered is another level . I wonder whether you have come across Picot edging which was used for finishing off the sleeves of saree blouses, which was very pretty. It also had a similar appearance to the cut out areas in your work . My mum did this even on her Nechchi machine which had a special picot needle to cut a space as it sewed along the edge of the sleeve , but wasn’t as nice as the hand sewn Picot edge. I tried googling Picot after seeing your lovely work but was unable to find it as I have described. I guess people don’t go into all that artistry these days - you are an exception.
Your efforts have produced wonderful results. Thanks to you and Mahen for presenting this so methodically . With best wishes for more lovely work from you - Rohini
I always appreciate when you take the trouble to post a comments Rohini. I had no idea of these crafts! I can repair socks, shorten or lengthen trousers and can even make them narrower! But embroidery? Never tried it although I did go to a mixed sex school in Nugegoda as a child and learnt to do basic embroidery. I remember stiching a chain to a hankerchief in an orderly manner to produce the image of a kite with a tail in a different colour, and eben do my initials MG!
DeleteAs for Pico, never heard of it . The closest would be (Nelson) Piquet, the former Formula 1 Brazilian Racing Driver!
Mahen, You say “ I can repair socks, shorten or lengthen trousers and can even make them narrower! even do MG “ I am sure you can fix a button too though you failed to mention it !
DeleteThough I have learned to darn in my young days during needlework in school, I have never had the patience to practice it ! You are very clever - don’t worry about embroidery- Enjoy the multiplicity of your other talents and hobbies - life is to enjoy - or, may be I should say - try Hardanger if your patience can equal Chira’s and you might surprise yourself !
Rohini
DeleteThanks ever so much for appreciating my embroidery which I value very much.
During a certain period my dressmaker used to pico edge my saree blouse neck and sleeve edges. It was the fashion during that period. I still have quite a lot of those blouses.
You being a great artist I appreciate your lovely statements.
Chira
Mahendra
DeleteYou are great in doing needlework as you mentioned.
I know an Ophthalmologist's husband a VOG doing Cross stitching in a big way.
There are lots of men who are great tailors.
As suggested by Rani, why don't you try Hardanger embroidery ?
It will be a Herculian task I am sure. Nothing is impossible !
All the best.
Chira
Chira, The artist is Rani Anandasabhapathy.
DeleteIam just Rohini Anandaraja with no claims to fame !
Thanks for acknowledging my comment anyway - Cheers- Rohini
Rohini
DeleteI am sorry I got confused with the 2 Ana's.
I know that Artist is Rani.
I know you are Rohini Senaratne.
Chira
Dear Chira,
ReplyDeleteCongratulations on your splendid creations. The expertise ,dexterity and artistry are consummate. Not surprising though from someone whose profession was delicate eye surgery.
I have always appreciated embroidery, from early childhood. My mother was very skilled at ‘ Beeralu” Galle lace , a Portuguese or Dutch legacy., She made table mats, chair covers and also hair bun covers much treasured by Kanthi and her sisters.
Best wishes for more masterpieces.
Kumar
Kumar
ReplyDeleteThak you very much for your appreciative comments which I value greatly.
So men appreciate embroidery, I am glad you do so.
When I started doing the tablemat I never thought of sending it to our Blog as I thought men don't appreciate embroidery. But Mahendra said to send it. I had to take photos of every step when I started doing the 2nd one, in order to send it. I am glad I did.
I never thought that poeple will appreciate it so much.
Chira
DeleteKumar, It was interesting to learn about your mum’s skill with Beeralu lace .
I remember seeing a Beeralu cushion with all it’s pins and appendages sitting in the corner of a room when I was very young, but never saw it being operated .I think the domestics took more interest in it .
My mum was perhaps too busy with us kids then to work on it, and besides, she had other art works she was engaged in and shared with us.
Beeralu lace, also called Galle Lace was very intricate and pretty as you’d remember.
During our memorable intern year in Galle, I purchased a beautiful black Beeralu lace which I used as a head piece and border on a deep crimson silk saree I wore to a ball several years later - those were the days of sophisticated flamboyance now long gone !
There were also very pretty and delicate laces etc that could be done with Tatin and Crochet -both of which my mum taught me to do. The skills my mum taught me were many, most of which fell by the wayside after a time and were forgotten , except the piano which will journey on with me to the end of my days I guess- remembered with gratitude.
Thanks Kumar- Good to hear from you again.
Rohini
Rohini and Kumar,
DeleteI was interested to read about the Beeralu lace (aka pillow lace) from your exchange. We had someone working in our house, who was a "second mother" to us when we were growing up. She was a very industrious woman who would work on her Beeralu lace before going to sleep, which was usually on a reed mat (pathura) next to one of our beds. It was fascinating to watch her swing the Beeralu spindles back and forth to weave the lace. There were pins that were placed strategically on the Beeralu pillow so that the threads created a pattern.
My mother was an excellent seamstress, entirely self taught. Apparently when she first started teaching and earning money, she would stitch a new dress for her youngest sister every week. There were no ready made dresses when we we young (remember?) and the dresses I wore were made by my mother, or one of two young women, who would visit us whenever there was sewing to be done. They learned from my mother who guided them and taught them. They went on to earn a living as seamstresses.
I am proud to say that I learned to sew by watching my mother, and later taking some classes just before starting medical college. One of my daughters learned to crochet from my mother. and my granddaughter has taken an interest in sewing, with some initial guidance from me, although she doesn't seem to have a lot of time for it these days. (She gets instructions from YouTube as well!). It is too bad that we don't take the time to indulge in these creative past times, the way Chira does. I'm hoping that I will be able to change that very soon now that I am in Colombo!
Beautiful work produced with patience and enormous concentration
ReplyDeleteAnonymous, who are you ?
ReplyDeletePlease reply.
Thank you very much. I agree it was sheer concentration and patience. I am glad you appreciated my endeavour.
Chira
Kusuma
DeleteSo I have discovered you as the Anonymous person who posted a comment above. I have replied.
Chira
Hi Chira. That is indeed a fabulous piece of work. Reminds me of ur dexterity in corneal grafting. Congratulations , This embroidery skill is a task to be mastered by immense patience , full commitment to see it through to the end and u have it.
ReplyDeleteHope to see more of ur creations in the future. Stay safe and well. Benitta
Benitta
ReplyDeleteThank you very much for your lovely comment which I value immensely.
I have a big task to do 6 more tablemats. I have the willpower to do it.
All the best.
Chira
Thank you Rohini. There were many facets and treasures in Galle which we were oblivious of. One was the walks on Galle ramparts. I discovered this when I did a GP locum in Mahamodera after the internship. The GP was Dr ASH De Silva. His younger brother Kingsley and I walked together and sometimes ended up having a cold Lion Lager.
ReplyDeleteYour Mother , like mine would have been very skilled in handicrafts. We were I suppose too busy with studies to pursue such hobbies She was very keen for us to learn painting and music , both of which she was proficient in; however that was a lost cause.
I would have told you before that my mother took an immediate liking to you when you came to give a lift back to Galle . That was very unusual as she viewed most of our female companions with misgiving.!!
Please keep contributing to the Blog. We need your charm and humour
especially now.
Kumar
Kumar, A sweet sentiment from you- thank you-
DeleteWe were so inhibited in our young days it limited our enjoyment of Galle and it’s surrounds . There was a time I was even afraid to smile with anyone of the opposite gender lest I was misunderstood .
The benefit of being old is that one can go along with Mark Twain and sing like no one is listening, dance like no one is watching, love like you’ll never be hurt, and live like it is heaven on earth, if you are still fortunate to be with the love of your life .Stay well and in touch Kumar - Love to both Kanthi and you - Rohini
Dr Chira your embroidery is so beautiful and amazing.
ReplyDeleteThivanshi
ReplyDeleteThank you very much for appreciating my embroidery which I value a lot.
You had forgotten to type your name, but I knew it was you since you had sent a whatsapp mentioning that you posted a comment.
Chira akki
Hello chira,
ReplyDeleteI am visiting here in Australia visiting my sister who unfortunately has a brain tumor. However her daughter whose part time hobby is being a seamstress, told me more of the Hardanger embroidery and how intricate and precise every stitch has to be. I am sure this is part of the precise micro surgery related to Opthalmology. I did go through micro surgery training for reversal of tubal sterilization , training with pigs and I probably did about a dozen and if I can recall had only 1 live birth. At that time it took quite a bit of time and I wandered if it was worth it all, thanks to IVF this surgery is a thing of the past. I marvel at all you talents , paintings now this , I wander what you reveal to us next.!!
Rajan
Rajan
ReplyDeleteThank you very much for appreciating my talents which I value greatly.
You have seen my paintings, I wonder whether you have seen my article on 'Method of knitting a cardigan' with circular knitting needles where they are joined by a transparent cord.
If you are interested in this, go through the Creative spot in our batch Blog and you will see it on 21.1.2024
I remember a Sarojini Ratneser a school mate at Methodist College, I wonder whether she is a relative of yours.
Chira
Yes Sarojini is my sister, interestingly she lives in Perth and worked in the University of Western Australia doing research in the department of Opthalmolgy. She has a number of articles published with her name. If you are interested I will get more information, but I will be speaking to her and will let her know of your talents .
ReplyDeleteRajan
Rajan
ReplyDeleteI am glad to know that Sarojini is your sister. She would have been in the tamil class. I sat for SSC in 1957 I think, when did Sarojini do the SSC I wonder.
I am interested to know the research she has done on Ophthalmology.
Are you on WhatsApp? If so will you be able to send a photo of Sarojini to my whatsapp. I will send one of my photos. I was Chirasri Mallawaratchi (my maiden name ), she might know.
If Sarogini is interested I could send the link to the Knitting of Cardigan with circular knitting needles joined with a transparent cord to your WhatsApp.
I hope she is not the one suffering from a brain tumour.
Chira
Hi Chira, I just spoke to my sister Saro, she wanted a picture of you so that she can recall you. she explained how the 2 Swabasha streams came together for the Science stream. Both my sister and I are on WhatsApp. My phone number is 1 5105200770and my sister Sarojini is 61466260147. No she is not the one with brain tumor ,it is myn older sister Sakuntala.
DeleteRajan
Rajan
DeleteI just sent a photo to your WhatsApp.Have a look and show Sarojini.
Chira
Wow! Chira,this handwork is intricate, elegant and beautiful. Congratulations on mastering a difficult technique. The background information and step wise explanations with illustrations help an uninitiated person like me to understand this delicate embroidery. Thank you. Please excuse me for the delayed visit to the blog. Manel (Owli)
ReplyDeleteManel
ReplyDeleteThank you very much for appreciating my embroidery which I value greatly.
I am glad I demonstrated the steps by taking photos, otherwise poeple wouldn't have followed it and appreciated it so much.
Chira